Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Guts wrote: I know this isn`t fixing the problem but it is a very simpal way of dealing with it.
Bogan, did you read this bit of my post? I`ll guess not since you had to point out that it shouldn`t need doing. Damn CV`s shouldn`t break either but with the extra stress we put on them they do but they wouldn`t if toyots put longs in them from factory
the prob i was having is the thread holding the arm couldnt tighten down properly due to the taper in the arms being too deep. that then caused the thread in the hub too come loose and eventually snap.. very Grimace...
cheap fix was too remove the washer too allow the nut too tighten down properly. its a bit hack but seems too work...
Guts wrote: I know this isn`t fixing the problem but it is a very simpal way of dealing with it.
Bogan, did you read this bit of my post? I`ll guess not since you had to point out that it shouldn`t need doing. Damn CV`s shouldn`t break either but with the extra stress we put on them they do but they wouldn`t if toyots put longs in them from factory
True i missed that bit but i still think you spend$1200or so $$$$$ on a steering setup you think it would be rite and if its not you would think the person who SOLD it to you would go out of his way to fix or replace sh1t parts... Guess not.. its B.S that it take a zinc plater 2-3 months to zinc plate some steering rods and then the guy wont even answer his phone when you try and call him to get them.........
like i said before after sales service needs attention........
94 HJZ 80 GXL 4 Inch lift 35s. TJM Accessories Front to back
Ruff, 99% of people think the normal way is removing the top one (arm) and the bottom one as well, but those of us that have done our far share of cvs know better
Ruff, 99% of people think the normal way is removing the top one (arm) and the bottom one as well, but those of us that have done our far share of cvs know better
I know im not the 1% thats for sure although never broken a c.v either
94 HJZ 80 GXL 4 Inch lift 35s. TJM Accessories Front to back
Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Posts: 7180 Location: Brisbane Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 6:48 am
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mczook wrote: Quote: beebee Rock God
Joined: 09 Nov 2002 Posts: 1441 Location: Brisbane Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:10 pm
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I haven't broken any studs since welding the arms to the hub.
I don't think stronger studs is the fix as I have pulled the thread out of the hub a few times too.
G'day Beebee
How do you go with getting the hub off now you have welded the arms to the hub?
You need to un-do the lower Trunion Cap and the swivel hub comes off as normal.
G'day Ruff
Gonads told to give you his opinion on welding the arms to the hubs - ' its a Fu@#$ shit idea'. He does not recommend it to anyone but those who use their trucks for offroad use only. He wanted to note from his experience once you have welded the arm & king pin to the hub and then you try to take off your hub to work on or replace the bearings you cant. Because now you cant set the preload on the bearings properly.
Just food for thought for those considering welding their arms.
Gonads told to give you his opinion on welding the arms to the hubs - ' its a Fu@#$ shit idea'. He does not recommend it to anyone but those who use their trucks for offroad use only. He wanted to note from his experience once you have welded the arm & king pin to the hub and then you try to take off your hub to work on or replace the bearings you cant. Because now you cant set the preload on the bearings properly.
Just food for thought for those considering welding their arms.
Cheers Sean
Sean i never said it was a good idea to weld the arm on and i would never recomend someone doing it even if it was an offroad only vehicle. Maybe you need to re-read this thread? I have never broken a single knuckle stud. But i have had them come loose. I now check the LH arm whenever i have the wheel off or whenever i walk past it and have a 19mm spanner or socket close by. Before anyone says anything the nuts on my studs are 19mm not 17mm like normal but this is due to the double flipped arm i run.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
If you are snapping studs after buying an aftermarket steering arm then the Arm has problems and realy should not be approved for on road use. The same goes for the tie rod ends not fitting right. You should never need to modify an arm that has been engineered and aproved for on road use.
Although if you are running larger tyres than can be approved on that particulare axle then your on your own.
Guts wrote:One way of stopping snapped studs is to at the end of each day when 4x4ing check that the nuts on the studs are tight, when not 4x4ing do it about once a month. The way I see it is the more you modify your rig the harder the driving you are going to be doing and the harder the driving the more preventative maintance you need to do. Most people that put high steer on are running 35+ tyres and the extra stress that this adds is massive not to meantion, locks and low psi in the tyres and I think you find that toyota never allowed for this much extra srtess when they decided on the stud size.
I know this isn`t fixing the problem but it is a very simpal way of dealing with it. When I was snapping studs when I 1st went high steer (I think I was the 1st lux in Aus, Bj was 1st overall on his cruiser) I was never checking they were tight, after about 3 trips I`d snap studs. Once I started tightening them each day or so I never snapped another one in 18 months.
Guts wrote: High steer or just cross over? What suspension setup were you running?
Guts wrote:Well there you go, learn something new everyday
Guts wrote: Bogan, did you read this bit of my post? I`ll guess not since you had to point out that it shouldn`t need doing. Damn CV`s shouldn`t break either but with the extra stress we put on them they do but they wouldn`t if toyots put longs in them from factory
Guts wrote: Ruff, 99% of people think the normal way is removing the top one (arm) and the bottom one as well, but those of us that have done our far share of cvs know better
