ANy Questions ask away.
Birrls New Shoes

Diff Prepped of Land Rover DNA implant.


It's New Home


Will Post some more of the rear shortly.
A couple of the front diff


Moderator: Micka
Yeah, I wanted the weaker diff in the tourer rather than the comp truckLoanrangie wrote:Any reason why you didnt just keep the gq up front with the toyo in the rear ?
Oxy if you are good with it, grinder if your not. As for the purches, they are taken from the old rover housing.86MUD wrote:Maggot
What's the best way to cut the old spring perchers off the axle assembly? is Oxy ok even with the excessive heat?
And where do you get the new spring perchers from? Did you just fabricate them yourself? Obviously the mount for the rear A frame is custom made...
Cheers
Andrew
They are off a GU PootrolLoanrangie wrote:Looks good, i like the alloy's what are they off ? Now if you could keep the landy stud pattern i would consider the conversion - i got 9 disco rims, 5 steel rr rims and 5 sunny's to use
screw the stud pattern, sell the rims and buy sum toyo/nissan stud pattern ones... beside they cheaper tooLoanrangie wrote:Looks good, i like the alloy's what are they off ? Now if you could keep the landy stud pattern i would consider the conversion - i got 9 disco rims, 5 steel rr rims and 5 sunny's to use
I thik they are about the same, anybe an inch or 2.Loanrangie wrote:Maggot, how much wider if any are the toyo diffs compared to the rover ?
I don't think 100s are wider than 80s, if they are it is small difference.AnthonyP wrote:About 4.5"Loanrangie wrote:Maggot, how much wider if any are the toyo diffs compared to the rover ?
I beleive the toyo (80series) are about 63.5" wms-wms
rover is just under 59" (measured)
ps. the 100s toyo diffs are another 1.5-2" wideri want sum
Maggot4x4 wrote:For the front end, GQ is by far the easiest, it is just bolt in, make a steering arm, block a brake pipe, redrill the pinion flange and your done.
For the rear, I would go 80 series, due to the offset of the diff and the fact they are full floaters.
80s front and rearv840 wrote:Maggot4x4 wrote:For the front end, GQ is by far the easiest, it is just bolt in, make a steering arm, block a brake pipe, redrill the pinion flange and your done.
For the rear, I would go 80 series, due to the offset of the diff and the fact they are full floaters.
Is this what you are running or are you running 80s diffs front and back?
Top effort by the way. Looks
They are quieter than my old BFG's, they drive very well in the dry on the road, they do aquaplane a little bit in the wet.Michele wrote:Looks bad@ss
Any unbiased opinion about those tyres?
If I search they're now oh-so-cool and 5 mins later they're cr@p...
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(I apologize for the slight OT question)
It steers great, castor is spot on, no tail shaft vibes or anything. Needs new front shocks but other that that I couldn't be happier.Simo63 wrote:Love the land Rover sticker in the middle of the Nissan Rim![]()
How does it steer? Any problems with castor or vibration? What about the tailshafts ... are they running straight and without too much strain on the unis?
Looks great
Yeah good Simon, bit worried about the cyclone but other than that good.. Have you sold your rangie yet now you have fallen to the dark side?Gollywog wrote:Looks great Ash, hope it works out better for you than the GQ ones. What happened to the 38's?????
Hows life way up the coast.....
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