Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have searched and theres heaps of threads on lifting and fitting 37s but not much info on what parts need to be replaced or upgraded for 37s on GQ.
I am getting second set of tyres for offroad either 35s or 37s. I think my GQ should handle 35s ok but if I get 37s I think parts like steering and axels might start breaking. So to run 37s properly on a GQ what parts need to be replaced or upgraded?
I will keep stock diff ratios 4.1 for on road with 33s and plan get reduction gears if I get 37s.

do you have a front locker if yes get lots of spare cvs and axels or contact cal offroad

I broke stock CVs on the second trip. However, the YURIs I replaced them with have held up great to 2 comps and plenty of social wheeling.

Even the front 4wd systems lokka is holding up fine.

cv's

Diff ratios of 4.11 is a balls up, and will mean you'll be rowing the boat between low1st and second off rd, and also on the hw. I have 4.11,s n 37's, but i have an efi turbo..... However i'm getting 4.6's. and cals cv's

Reddo wrote:cv's

Diff ratios of 4.11 is a balls up, and will mean you'll be rowing the boat between low1st and second off rd

Why won't 4.1 diff ratios and reduction gears work ?

So are CVs the only thing thats needs upgrading for running 37s on a GQ?

SIM79 wrote:

Reddo wrote:cv's

Diff ratios of 4.11 is a balls up, and will mean you'll be rowing the boat between low1st and second off rd

Why won't 4.1 diff ratios and reduction gears work ?

So are CVs the only thing thats needs upgrading for running 37s on a GQ?

oh yeah, well as far i know reduction gears might fix that, plus you keep the 4.11 crown wheel and pinion, which is bigger than the 4.6.

SIM79 wrote:

Reddo wrote:cv's

Diff ratios of 4.11 is a balls up, and will mean you'll be rowing the boat between low1st and second off rd

Why won't 4.1 diff ratios and reduction gears work ?

So are CVs the only thing thats needs upgrading for running 37s on a GQ?

I run 4.1 diffs and an 85% T-Case, works fine.

And CVs are the only drive line part I've changed.

If you drive it hard you will need to upgrade cv's and axels standard axels arent that strong

expanding on the current topic, how strong are the rear axels?

Brakes. Make sure your brakes are at least up to scratch, and if you have some spare coin look at doing an upgrade.

Make sure the clutch is in good nick too. If you dont have a reasonable drive ratio you will find yourself slipping it a bit to make up for the taller drive ratio when you take off.

Reddo wrote:expanding on the current topic, how strong are the rear axels?

very average! the material seems brittle, we have destroyed quite a few, and have also twisted (beyond useable) a LHS H260 37spline.

personally, something has to give, id prefer to keep stock cv's as they are easy to change, as soon as u put strong ones in u twist an axle, so u put a stronger axle in, then you end up breaking the input shaft to the box, so u put a stronger ip shaft in, and so on and so on, but the fact is , something has to go might as well be something that can be fixed on the side of a trail

cooki_monsta wrote:personally, something has to give, id prefer to keep stock cv's as they are easy to change, as soon as u put strong ones in u twist an axle, so u put a stronger axle in, then you end up breaking the input shaft to the box, so u put a stronger ip shaft in, and so on and so on, but the fact is , something has to go might as well be something that can be fixed on the side of a trail

Or you could make it all strong so nothing breaks

kond wrote:

cooki_monsta wrote:personally, something has to give, id prefer to keep stock cv's as they are easy to change, as soon as u put strong ones in u twist an axle, so u put a stronger axle in, then you end up breaking the input shaft to the box, so u put a stronger ip shaft in, and so on and so on, but the fact is , something has to go might as well be something that can be fixed on the side of a trail

Or you could make it all strong so nothing breaks

its murphys law, something will always break at the most inconvenient time

cooki_monsta wrote:personally, something has to give, id prefer to keep stock cv's as they are easy to change, as soon as u put strong ones in u twist an axle, so u put a stronger axle in, then you end up breaking the input shaft to the box, so u put a stronger ip shaft in, and so on and so on, but the fact is , something has to go might as well be something that can be fixed on the side of a trail

may as well stick to 31's then?

Depends how you drive. I've run 37s with 4.1 diffs, 85% transfer gears, front and rear lockers, with standard CVs for years and haven't broken any. If you have a lead foot you will break heaps of them but if you use the off switch on the front locker and control your right foot (only putting the boot in at the right time) they will last.

if u dont have lockers i dont think anything will break maybe the odd cv when giving it a caining. but if ur locked up cvs and axles. cv's will break soooooooo easy.

if ur a seriously 4wder u need a lead foot to get up the "extreme" stuff and u will break stuff trust me. the people who say they drive on stock cvs with lockers and dont break stuff they must drive on only sand.

i can post vids of how easy cvs break if u like ?

replace the cv's and axels with cals and that will leave you with hubs to be the fuse and very easy to replace.
And as said there has to be a weak point somewhere .

id rather change a locking hub with 6 allen key bolts that you can get to in seconds then a cv. especially seeing as you only break cv's at the worst possible time. ie: half way up some bullshit track

SIM79 wrote:

Reddo wrote:cv's

Diff ratios of 4.11 is a balls up, and will mean you'll be rowing the boat between low1st and second off rd

Why won't 4.1 diff ratios and reduction gears work ?

So are CVs the only thing thats needs upgrading for running 37s on a GQ?

When you mention reduction gears I guess you're talking about transfer. I've seen 2 options for transfer gears and both only reduce in LOW, so highway performace remains the same. I run 37" with 4.62:1 on the diffs and feel I lack some grunt on highway (HI) On LOW I'm OK but I'm getting the turbo anyways. Later I'll analyze if I go transfer gears or not.

BTW, for 37" you'll need lift and guard chops. The lift brings you the caster issue and there you go...

sidewayz wrote:id rather change a locking hub with 6 allen key bolts that you can get to in seconds then a cv. especially seeing as you only break cv's at the worst possible time. ie: half way up some bullshit track

actually if you're a certain member of this site and patrol4x4 you break them (CV's AND front axles) on basically flat ground...

sidewayz wrote:id rather change a locking hub with 6 allen key bolts that you can get to in seconds then a cv. especially seeing as you only break cv's at the worst possible time. ie: half way up some bullshit track

exactly and least the gq does not easily destroy diff centre and gearboxes as much as the other make does

Mario wrote:

SIM79 wrote:

Reddo wrote:cv's

Diff ratios of 4.11 is a balls up, and will mean you'll be rowing the boat between low1st and second off rd

Why won't 4.1 diff ratios and reduction gears work ?

So are CVs the only thing thats needs upgrading for running 37s on a GQ?

When you mention reduction gears I guess you're talking about transfer. I've seen 2 options for transfer gears and both only reduce in LOW, so highway performace remains the same. I run 37" with 4.62:1 on the diffs and feel I lack some grunt on highway (HI) On LOW I'm OK but I'm getting the turbo anyways. Later I'll analyze if I go transfer gears or not.

BTW, for 37" you'll need lift and guard chops. The lift brings you the caster issue and there you go...

I can't run 4.6 diff gears as I am keeping my 33s for road use so reduction gears are the only option for me. When I fit the 37s I will only drive a max distance of 10klm to get to tracks.

money_killer wrote: the people who say they drive on stock cvs with lockers and dont break stuff they must drive on only sand.

I've been on sand once in the past 6 years as I only ever drive on rock. I drive plenty of hard stuff and often walk up stuff others put the boot in for, I just try to drive with control. Any idiot can point and shoot, it takes more skill to drive within the vehicles limits. So, my point still stands. If you are a lead foot you will break heaps but if you control yourself you will be fine.

Nelso wrote:

money_killer wrote: the people who say they drive on stock cvs with lockers and dont break stuff they must drive on only sand. :D

I've been on sand once in the past 6 years as I only ever drive on rock. I drive plenty of hard stuff and often walk up stuff others put the boot in for, I just try to drive with control. Any idiot can point and shoot, it takes more skill to drive within the vehicles limits. So, my point still stands. If you are a lead foot you will break heaps but if you control yourself you will be fine.

X2

I've run 37"s for 6 years and have driven it hard enough to crack a chassis in 5 places. I have broken 4 short side cv's and 2 longs. My TD42 runs 17psi at the mo and sees 5000rpm regulary.

Since fitting a GU front I have not broken a cv, just the auto hub which I replaced with gq manual hubs and nothing since.

Fit the transfer gears and drive it smoothly and all will be good, drive it like a goose and break stuff.

There is a difference between social wheeling and competition. What 1MadEngineer has said would be true if running 300hp on stickies and a big foot, but look how it (red superior eng. gq) gets driven and it will not suprise you how they break stuff.

ok guys i will post a vid up this is how the last one broke in my brothers car. (and im sure everyone will comment on the drving style or say he was doing something wrong)

it was hard to recover him outta there too, was a decent ledge footage not the best.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea ... d=53237337


aaron

As I said, I often just walk up stuff that others put the foot down for. That is not a difficult track at all and there is no reason to put it on full lock and spin the wheels. It is driver error in my book, but you guys keep blaming the CVs. If you get more flex in your front end, drop the pressure in your tyres and pick a better line you will crawl up that stuff easy.

SIM79 wrote:

Mario wrote:

SIM79 wrote:

Reddo wrote:cv's

Diff ratios of 4.11 is a balls up, and will mean you'll be rowing the boat between low1st and second off rd

Why won't 4.1 diff ratios and reduction gears work ?

So are CVs the only thing thats needs upgrading for running 37s on a GQ?

When you mention reduction gears I guess you're talking about transfer. I've seen 2 options for transfer gears and both only reduce in LOW, so highway performace remains the same. I run 37" with 4.62:1 on the diffs and feel I lack some grunt on highway (HI) On LOW I'm OK but I'm getting the turbo anyways. Later I'll analyze if I go transfer gears or not.

BTW, for 37" you'll need lift and guard chops. The lift brings you the caster issue and there you go...

I can't run 4.6 diff gears as I am keeping my 33s for road use so reduction gears are the only option for me. When I fit the 37s I will only drive a max distance of 10klm to get to tracks.

Guess you should be OK then ... !

dirtyGQ wrote:replace the cv's and axels with cals and that will leave you with hubs to be the fuse and very easy to replace.
And as said there has to be a weak point somewhere .

sad part is i know of 3 cal's that broke running std locking hubs

money_killer wrote:ok guys i will post a vid up this is how the last one broke in my brothers car. (and im sure everyone will comment on the drving style or say he was doing something wrong)

aaron

I was expecting a lot worse than that, didn't look tht bad at all (driving style)