Im looking for some advise.
While Ive rebuilt/repaired/busted a lot of trailers before this is the first Ive had with cable brakes.
I rebuilt the trailer recently - including putting a new A frame onto it.
That meant re-routing slightly the pulley that directs the cable around the leaf spring and onto the front axle drum brake.
Brake shoes were re-adjusted.
The brakes do pull up well now.
But.....
1. I find I need to adjust the cable when ever I change loads - as the change in suspension height tightens/slackens the cable a lot.
2. And even once adjusted - Im getting REALLY hot front hubs after long trips. Even though the cable is NOT being run over tight.
any tips ?
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Cable brake setup on rebuilt car trailer - hot hubs!
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
if it is requiring re adjustment if the suspension height changes i would say that the bumps in the road ie. trailer bouncing is causing the brake to drag.
probably try to find a way to route the wire so that the bounce doesnt affect it as much????
probably try to find a way to route the wire so that the bounce doesnt affect it as much????
Keep it shiny side up!
Now doing general fab work and painting
trays, trailers, engine swaps on request, some tube work, silo section sliders, rust repairs, ute chops etc
Now doing general fab work and painting
trays, trailers, engine swaps on request, some tube work, silo section sliders, rust repairs, ute chops etc
Re: Cable brake setup on rebuilt car trailer - hot hubs!
This is something I really hate about cable brakes on trailers.BrettInUte wrote: 1. I find I need to adjust the cable when ever I change loads - as the change in suspension height tightens/slackens the cable a lot.
2. And even once adjusted - Im getting REALLY hot front hubs after long trips. Even though the cable is NOT being run over tight.
I agree with hiluxmad. The suspension movement as you drive along the road is almost certainly causing the brakes to come on and off.
What you really should have is inner and outer cables between the chassis and axle, so that the cable tension is not affected by suspension movement. Essentially, the same as a car handbrake.
Re: Cable brake setup on rebuilt car trailer - hot hubs!
Thats a perfect solution...Athol wrote: What you really should have is inner and outer cables between the chassis and axle, so that the cable tension is not affected by suspension movement. Essentially, the same as a car handbrake.
(Why didnt I think of that !!)
Just an outer + some kind of anchor bracket for each end of the outer.
Adjustment is done at the coupling end. that makes it simpler.
Can anyone suggest a suitable donor model ?
Re: Cable brake setup on rebuilt car trailer - hot hubs!
Without getting something custom made, I'd be looking at Vans like Merc Vito or Sprinter or similar.. Maybe even small trucks like Dyna/Canter/Trader.BrettInUte wrote:
Can anyone suggest a suitable donor model ?
Re: Cable brake setup on rebuilt car trailer - hot hubs!
you need to change the LAST pivot point of the cable before the actual caliper, it needs to be furthur towards the front of the trailer so its not effected as much.want33s wrote:Without getting something custom made, I'd be looking at Vans like Merc Vito or Sprinter or similar.. Maybe even small trucks like Dyna/Canter/Trader.BrettInUte wrote:
Can anyone suggest a suitable donor model ?
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
Re: Cable brake setup on rebuilt car trailer - hot hubs!
jessie928 wrote:
you need to change the LAST pivot point of the cable before the actual caliper, it needs to be furthur towards the front of the trailer so its not effected as much.
Jes
I thought about that when I set it up.
the pulley is about 5 inches forward of the front spring hanger.
Does that sound reasonable ?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests