DIY cargo draws

Post by **ROCKMUTT** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:19 pm

Ok im gunna attempt to build a set of cargo draws in the back of my GQ

was wondering if u can buy and if so where from proper ball bearing runners for the draws ,like the ones on the brought cargo draws etc

has anyone done this and any pics of homemade draws would be good

Post by **toughnut** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:20 pm

have a chat to rockcrawler31 from this board. He did an awsome job in his troopy. They look just like manufactured draws. complete with fridge slide. He'll help you out

Post by **familybus** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:34 pm

Post by **CruiserCruising** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:14 pm

hey
bearings just go buy the sort you would stick in a skateboard wheel cheap as or alternatively find and old skatey and rip them outta that. fridge slide go to a kitchen place and ask them for some sliders i made my own draws to suit what i wanted i made a fridge slide but personally i think there crap and a waste of time. ill get some pics of the draw for ya and post em up.

Caleb

Post by **GUJohnno** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:40 pm

You can get the bearings from any bolt place. Sometimes you can get them cheap from skate shops as they're the same as gets used in inline skates. They have an 8mm hole in the center whichmakes it real easy to put a bolt through with just a couple of lock nuts either side.

Post by **familybus** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:57 am

i tried to use all sorts off bearings and bolts and stuff and found out that the best way is to make your drawers so they fit snug and dont use any bearings at all! no matter how you set them up, if your making your drawers out of timber the bolts will jam your drawers when opening or shuttin them and they suk! a nice snug fit will do the job! ive got heaps of weight in mine and they open easily enough!

Post by **chimpboy** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:30 am

familybus wrote:i tried to use all sorts off bearings and bolts and stuff and found out that the best way is to make your drawers so they fit snug and dont use any bearings at all! no matter how you set them up, if your making your drawers out of timber the bolts will jam your drawers when opening or shuttin them and they suk! a nice snug fit will do the job! ive got heaps of weight in mine and they open easily enough!

Mine work very nicely with skate bearings and RHS steel runners... they never bind or jam.

Post by **blkmav** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:39 am

I used drawer runners from Hafele, they are designed to take 70Kgs and have a positive locking feature.

http://www.hafele.com.au

Post by **MARKx4** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:11 pm

blkmav wrote:I used drawer runners from Hafele, they are designed to take 70Kgs and have a positive locking feature.

http://www.hafele.com.au

Thats who i was going to recomend, i have there catolge at work ill go through it and see what they have avaliable and post it up.

Website · Post by **GRINCH** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:44 pm

i would go the bearing option, as any cabinet runners arnt designed to withstand shock or vibration, plus they will be expensive $70+ wholsale for a set about 800mm long

Post by **klrevo** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:46 pm

hefele are expensive! i had a look at them for my firdge slide, waaaaaaaay expensive, but if you can afford

dean

Post by **MARKx4** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:19 pm

These would be ideal, cant find prices at the moment
http://www.hafele.com.au/isapi/online/tchff/tchff.asp

Post by **familybus** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:34 pm

no ones said how good my drawers look yet!

Post by **blkmav** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:55 pm

GRINCH wrote:i would go the bearing option, as any cabinet runners arnt designed to withstand shock or vibration, plus they will be expensive $70+ wholsale for a set about 800mm long

The Hafele runners I used have bearings top and bottom along the length of the runner. After 18 months of abuse they are still silky smooth with no rattles. They did cost the earth however quality remains long after price is forgotten.

Post by **GUJohnno** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 6:24 pm

chimpboy wrote:
familybus wrote:i tried to use all sorts off bearings and bolts and stuff and found out that the best way is to make your drawers so they fit snug and dont use any bearings at all! no matter how you set them up, if your making your drawers out of timber the bolts will jam your drawers when opening or shuttin them and they suk! a nice snug fit will do the job! ive got heaps of weight in mine and they open easily enough!
Mine work very nicely with skate bearings and RHS steel runners... they never bind or jam.

Same, mine worked a treat. Just got to keep things tight.

... a litle bit of soap on the outside of the RHS doesn't hurt either...

Post by **landy_man** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 6:44 pm

familybus wrote:no ones said how good my drawers look yet!

still not

Post by **CruiserCruising** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:08 pm

Hey
here is what i put together for the back of my 80

3mm steel plate in the rear of the draw for some strength the bit of material keeps noise down

stupid fridge slide big waste of time i think

the rhs that the draws roll on

the whole setup which have two draws fridge slide one huge side pocket on left hold 2 -3 30 packs of cans

other side hold air tank and outlet and two electrical sockets and behind one of the draws a 15l water tanks which has a pump which comes out near the back door

hope that gives ya some ideas

Post by **klrevo** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:21 pm

looks tidy cruisercruising,

but what was the "big waste of time" for the fridge slide???

dean

Post by **SiKiD_01** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:37 pm

i havent finished yet, but you get a fair idea of whats going on.

there are still a couple of things i need to do, but yeah. and its in a zook, but drawers are drawers.

CLOSED

OPEN

OPEN 2

Post by **CruiserCruising** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:56 pm

klrevo wrote:looks tidy cruisercruising,

but what was the "big waste of time" for the fridge slide???

dean

Well this was my first crack at making draws and well i made it in the hope of one day buying a fridge. So i looked up the size of most likely fridge i would get. But i made it full length of the top floor so when you put stuff behind the fridge (or in my case esky) you open it up and the stuff falls down and really i just pull the esky out i dont tend to carry an esky on day trips and if so i wouldnt tend go to it that often. So hence i see it as only a gimick. sounds good but just a waste of time making it. but each to there own im sure other ppl use theres all the time.

Post by **familybus** » Thu Jul 27, 2006 4:55 pm

mine looks good too!

Post by **smiley_smoke** » Thu Jul 27, 2006 8:22 pm

nice draws familybus.. very smooth

hehe

Post by **familybus** » Thu Jul 27, 2006 8:44 pm

smiley_smoke wrote:nice draws familybus.. very smooth hehe

thanks dude!

Post by **-Scott-** » Thu Jul 27, 2006 9:06 pm

I'm cheapest!

Two "under bed" plastic tubs with lids and wheels in the bottom, and a wooden frame which is only just big enough for them. I use one for tools/spares etc, the other for foodstuff - got to pull them right out to access stuff (to get the lids off) but that's also handy when I'm cooking - cart the tub to the stove/table. Lid also makes a great draining board for doing the dishes.

Because the tubs have lips around the top, there's room down each side of each tub for various poles, stove legs etc.

Of course, Mark 3 wooden frame incorporated fridge slide using 160kg Hafele runners, so that blew the budget a little.

No pics.

Scott

Post by **ROCKMUTT** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 6:41 pm

cheers guys theres some good ideas for me to go off on them lot

Post by **rockcrawler31** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 7:34 pm

hey there

i made mine from 22mm marine ply supports, 12mm ply lid, roller bearings and Rectangular Hollow section. Covered in black carpet, side panels, hold down rings and look similar to an outback set.

bearings are cheap and very strong but remember to put a limiter on your drawers or they will fall out on steep inclines

i used a hafele slide for my separate fridge slide, but they cost about 120 bucks and to be honest i will try and integrate it into my drawers next time.

pros and cons -

if you have metal fabbing skills make the supports from sheet steel as 22mm ply is very heavy.

if you use ply, i used blind nuts which hammer into the back of a predrilled hole and have a thread so that you can bolt the whole lot together and easily dissasemble

use quality marine carpet and contact adhesive. it may add a little cost to the end product but it will make the final appearance a lot better, and will hide any construction imperfections.

i will be back in country in a week or so. i will take pics then and post them up.

any q's, feel free to pm me

MILO

Post by **GUJohnno** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 8:00 pm

12mm ply, reinforced with ally angle riveted through and 'T' nuts

rockcrawler31 wrote:use quality marine carpet and contact adhesive. it may add a little cost to the end product but it will make the final appearance a lot better, and will hide any construction imperfections.

No imperections to hide..

Post by **smiley_smoke** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 9:42 pm

i like those draws GUjohnno..
what about when you take the beast swimming? (beast = your fourby

)
i would be worried the bottom sections would still rot yeh? or you use marine ply?

Post by **rockcrawler31** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 10:12 pm

i beg to differ on your supposed lack of imperfections.

firstly, no yota badge

and how are ya supposed to do any shagging on the top of those??

otherwise, nice job

Post by **GUJohnno** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 6:39 pm

smiley_smoke wrote:i like those draws GUjohnno..
what about when you take the beast swimming? (beast = your fourby )
i would be worried the bottom sections would still rot yeh? or you use marine ply?

If I drowned the truck the drawers would be the last thing I would be worrying about.

Not marine ply, just 12mm ply laquered with flooring polyurethene.

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

DIY cargo draws

DIY cargo draws

runners

draws

Re: draws

Who is online