Outer Limits 4x4 Board

As you can probly guess its a TB42. I have been loosing a lttle water lately. I just replaced the head 15000 kms ago, new casting and genuine head gasket, torqued it all as per specs and retorqued after a warm up. The old head was cracked but I can accept that after 240,000kms. How the f&%k has this head or gasket done the same thing so soon. Im really loosing faith fast for these engines, after all I got rid of my RB30 patrol for this slower TB42 patrol. Could it be somthing else? as the bubbles are not continuous just in intervals. I certainly cant afford to do another head at the moment is there anything else i can check that may be giving me these symptoms
cheers Brunsy

What kind of bubbles? Frothy little bubbles or just big glubs every so often?

If it's the big glubs, it could just be getting rid of air pockets.

Maybe, anyway.

big glubs but youd rekon this would stop eventually, keeps makin them. There seems to be tiny little ones commng out every now and then, it doesnt look like the typical head failure, not yet anyway. Do the blocks warp???
Threw some sealweld in it thisarvo, hardly the solution i want after spending a bloody fortune to fix it properly.

Is it EFI or carby. If it is efi there is a bleeder nut on top of inlet manifold?
Checked for water leaks anywhere else. Remember this engine is apperantly of Ford design you gotta expect this shit. My head cracked exactly one year after it was replaced luckily got it under warranty but had to fight for it.

Good luck

Steve

chimpboy wrote: If it's the big glubs, it could just be getting rid of air pockets.

Maybe, anyway.

Not likly after 15000 kms get a leek test on it to check if it is exhaust gasses in the cooling systerm, if it comes up positive then all u can do is pull it back off and check every thing from scrach (crack test, and check if the block is warped)

My head just let go in a big way and couldn't justify spending so much on just a new head, so i bought a injected 5Lt to drop in it only cost a little more and will have about same fuel eco, if not better


SKIPPY

i reacons your heada gasket is a f@@ked, dose the car ove head very quickly?

matthewK wrote:i reacons your heada gasket is a f@@ked, dose the car ove head very quickly?

Hate to say it, dood. But i agree with matty here

I've just recently overhauled the head on my TB42e, fun job with efi and LPG

It was getting hot, lost massive amount of power, and was bubbling like you describe. No oil in water and no water in oil. Gasket blown back of no.6 cylinder.
Compression test didn't show conclusive results either, and you've gotta pull half your friggin engine apart to remove plugs anyway, so while your there you may as well keep going.

My mate told me he saw an ad for reco'd heads with gasket kit for $500 in trading post. Sounds too cheap to me, but if you want i'll try to find out details for you.

Is it LPG?

If so, your gas converter may have a failed ??? in it. I think it's the diaphram that fails but the gas gurus may be able elaborate.

yep mine is on a TB42S running LPG. Being my own car though, i double checked every bloody thing when the head was off. I would bet the gasket has failed before this new head has, but what the hell is causing it??? It has never got hot and still reads fine now, power wise its always been a slug, but it gets an easy life anyways. Has anyone used brand new head bolts when they did the head, I reused the old ones.

Blocks do warp - or at least go out of true, usually it's recommended to get the block decked while you're at it (apart from the head).

But, of course - since this would involve pulling the whole engine apart and out of the vehicle, so usually it's not done unless it's part of an overhaul.

Agree with skippy ... get the cooling system tested for exhaust gases, they do essentially what is a litmus paper test and will be able to tell you if they are combustion gases flowing through the cooling system.

I'm not 100% familiar with the TB42 - are to torque settings specified as an angle or a torque setting? If it's the former, then they are TTY (torque-to-yield) and MUST be replaced - there is no question about it, if the latter, then just check the length of the bolts and as long as they're within spec they should have been ok.

When I replaced my head three years ago used new bolts and a new water pump. You can never be too careful with these heads. Has done 123000 hard klms no problems touch wood. Who did your head reco?

I bought a bare casting from nissan and had new valves and seats fitted, used the head gasket supplied, with holymar. No shortcuts were taken so im very surprised, I figure i will pull the head off and have a look whats going on. Has anyone had a warped block? and i will be using new bolts this time round. Is there anyway the water pump could be pulling air? Just a thought.

take your fan belts off and see if it still bubbles, it is possible to get cavitation bubbles with the fan belt still on. just dont run it for too long like this. warm it up first so the thermostat opens, then remove the belts and run it for a minute or 2 and check for bubbles

As for head studs, i didn't replace mine the other week when i re-fitted mine. I was going to. Rang Burson's and Repco, couldn't get 'em. Then i rang Nissan and was told not to bother - even they reuse 'em.

If it's not getting hot and no steam/water from exhaust it might not be gasket. Try the limus paper test, not always conclusive though. I had mine tested, no worries, got worse, took it off - gasket blown for sure. Gas idea may have merit too.